Monthly Archives: April 2012

This week we started targeted trapping for one particular male leopard who is currently collared. Setting up the traps was pretty intense work (more so for Gareth, than I!) but now we just check them around dawn and then reset them again at dusk.

In between we certainly don’t rest – we are out doing long hikes to set up more cameras or collecting old ones. Subsequently I am sleeping rather well.

Last night I was allowed to go and reset the traps on my own! This involves a one hour drive on some interesting 4WD tracks and I felt truly triumphant when I returned sans issue I think I might have earnt a trust brownie point as today I was allowed to drive on my own on a rather hectic 4WD track on the side of a mountain. I’m feeling quiet the adventurer driving the beat up Cape Leopard Trust bakkie (4WD ute) around the Swartberg ranges.

So enough about work for now – hopefully next post will be about the intense times involved in catching a leopard!

Some observations now on South Africa in general, and because it is my main passion at the moment, I will start with the supermarkets. The powers that be have obviously decided that this market likes sweet food. The breakfast cereals generally have some sort of chocolate flavour, there was even one with bubble gum flavour and marshmallows – which Gareth decided to buy just to shut me up and prove that people above 5 years of age eat it.

All the juices and yoghurts are sweetened, the cheese selection is pitiful (no parmesan!) and people looked at me oddly when I asked for chorizo. So from this day forward I will not complain about selection in Australian supermarkets. However, the naartjes (mandarins) which I have previously mentioned are just lekker (good in Afrikaans). They are one of the joys of my day. And I am about to go into mourning as tomorrow I eat my last one and the next supermarket trip is not for a week.

The wine however is a different, happier story. I bought six bottles of great wine and a superb tawny port for the grand total of $42.00 AUD. They are from a local winery called Bo Plaas and with their evil influence my wine behavioural habits are quickly evolving! For instance previously port was only ever drunk to accompany card games and only if it came from a nice oak cask. Now however anytime is a good time to consume this sweet, sweet nectar.

The nights and mornings are getting much colder now. I bought a flannel sheet for my little bed which was easily one of the most inspired ideas I’ve had this year, so cozy! The cooler temps make for brilliant hiking weather, I don’t think I could have come at a better time.

Chow for now my spaghetti bolognese awaits me! Chat soon

We are back after a hectic and brilliant week. As mentioned we went to a place called Gamkaskloof or ‘The Hell’ to set up some cameras to get an idea of the larger mammals and, of course, leopards in the area. Sounds simple?? Er no. Turns out that while leopards do use jeep tracks they also, of course, use game trails. To find an appropriate game trail involves much laboured clambering and bush bashing through ridiculously thorny plants to find just the right spot. Luckily you are often looking at your feet so that you don’t go head over, but also to note any leopard scat that might handily be sign posting a very appropriate trail.

Funny story, some suspicious people believe that die hel is haunted by spirits and that you must drive through with a chicken bone between your teeth to ward of said spirits. Of course we scoffed. Plus although it is only 37 km it is a 1.5 hour drive -would give you a pretty mouth to have a chicken bone stuck between your teeth the whole time… However we had a baffling event involving the complete disappearance of our GPS (crucial tool in this activity!) in the space of a  2 minute period. We had just used the GPS then drove 2 mins up the road and, poof!, it was gone. Occams Razor principles implies that it must, of course, been the spirits teaching us a lesson.

As further proof of the spirits displeasure we also got a flat tyre on that 37km drive into die hel – yes the same flat tyre that we replaced only days past. Gareth had a minor sense of humour failure, particularly as we now had no spare and would be in isolated areas involving rough 4WD tracks for the next four days. Luckily by miracle, or clever wheel placement, we made it out without another flat.

Each day was close to a 12 hour day with a good half that time hiking through the above mentioned thorny bushes carrying cameras, mounts, star pickets, mallets, hedge clippers, batteries and other sundry required for set up. Well actually Gareth carried most of that stuff, by chance my backpack was too small to fit much in, shame. Thoug I had devised a cunning plan to strap things to the front but my genuine offer was refused.

During this activity my appetite was like nothing I’ve come across before, the rumbling would have scared off any lurking leopards, and consequently I consumed VAST quantities of food. For the purposes of my recollection, and not your boredom I will note what I ate on one day.

• Muesli with 1 banana
• 2 x peanut butter and honey sandwiches
• 1 x wrap with cheese, avo and cherry tom
• 2  x mandarins or naartjes as they are called here – and the have no pips! Joy
• Numerous red grapes
• 3 x chocloate bikkies
• 1 x bowl of crisps
• 1 x massive piece of pork and salad to go with
• 6 x marshmallows cooked over the braai fire (YUMMMM – it’s been to long between crispy marshmallows)
• 1 x iron brew (sweet soft drink – I could hear my teeth rotting)

I’m sure there was more but memory already fails me. Anyway I am bound to leave this place a fatty boombah as although my energy output is high, comfort food seems to be the main input, but I’m not too concerned

The accommodation we stayed in was heavenly – very basic houses, but they were original block houses renovated and those guys knew how to insulate. And hot water…. oh hot water how I love you! It is the one missing luxury I am struggling without and it isn’t even winter yet eek! They also had a big braai pit out the front and fantastic view into the ranges. Happy Days.

We met the rangers out there, Martin and Marie (I think it was Marie) who live a very interesting life being really very cut off from everything. The nearest anything is a good three hours of 4WD tracks away, they have no power except solar, gas for hot water, no internet (jeepers!) and one land line. They go shopping once every 6-8 weeks and just hope there is no need for medical attention. No chance of fresh fruit and vegies because those clever little villains, baboons get in and steal EVERYTHING. Tough people.

Just as an aside and fyi I love it when you post comments! If you can’t see your comment after you’ve posted, it just means that it has come to me for ‘approval’ first before being publicly displayed, and as I have such trouble accessing this blog I may not get in there for a little while, so don’t let it discourage you!

Apologies for the lengthy tome. I crammed 4 days into one post but I wanted to record numerous events. I have been able to get a couple of photos on facebook as it still looks unlikely I can post images here. Hope you are all well out there!

I cut up a sheep today. Been dead for four days*. I wasn’t expecting a sheep’s anatomy lesson, but there you go expect the unexpected I guess. Truthfully I was impressed, and a fraction concerned, at how well I handled my first ever animal dismemberment. It was fascinating and I had one of those moments when I realised I could have done something very different with my life…. however for now I am happy (?!) putting sheep parts into blue plastic bags so that we can lure leopards into traps. Wait, that doesn’t very good…

Before this momentous event occurred we had been driving through, hands down, the best scenery yet, collecting some of the cameras that had been taking photos for the last two months. The cameras alternate between being off the road, so we have to hike to get them and right on the track. I’m getting some great hikes in and getting a little too close and personal to the thorny bushes that seem to dominate the landscape. Actually they aren’t too bad, as long as you are wearing the appropriate PPE – see safety has it’s place everywhere

Once we finished collecting the camera’s we headed to a farm and had a look at the photos, and there yesterday morning at 02:55 was a big ass leopard strutting past the camera! It was great to see and the property owners were thrilled, they run a farm and a guest house. Interestingly all the guests legs were also photographed as they walked past the camera, just a few hours earlier than the leopard – that might give them a shock

Yesterday we also drove around and collected cameras, had quite a day of driving and some good hikes up into the hills. Just as we were getting worried about time to complete all our tasks we hopped out of the car and heard that distinctive sound of air rapidly leaving a pressurised vessel. Namely our tyre. After a bit of cursing and some token help from me Gareth got us back on the road – I would have loved to have taken a photo but not sure how that would have gone down…

The other key event for the day was my first cobra sighting! Gareth was walking ahead and then suddenly stopped, backed up and said well hello Mr Cobra. At which point of course I excitedly peered over his shoulder to see the cobra flatten back down after rearing up and slowly make his way back into the shrubs.

Tomorrow we head for Die Hel and I can’t wait! I think there will be some good, big hikes through pretty lekker scenery. Might have to pull out the thermals however.

* For anyone concerned about the sheep, it died naturally and was not harmed for the purposes of this project. It was collected from a farm who were in the process of disposing of it after they found it dead one morning.

Sunday today, day of rest in this part of the world It’s lucky I’ve been so stressed up to this point….

We used the day to clean the house (much needed) and finish up on some of the data entry. Then I got to sit in the sun and read my book before heading out for a magical run. I was gone for 45 minutes and I heard nothing but wind and saw nothing but stunning landscape. I run up to a large hill near our house and then hiked the hill and was rewarded with brilliant views through a gorge, then ran back home – great for the soul, I’m feeling very invigorated now.

Yesterday we had to down tools for a few hours so that we could watch the rugby Stormers v Crusaders. Unfortunately the crusaders won, but it was still very pleasant sitting at Chris’ house watching the game. We then went out to a property to remove some cameras. It was a stunning drive, as everything out here seems to be! We then stopped at the pub on the way home and looked at the pics, but no leopards.

Since 2008…. and I earnt it making mounts for motion detector cameras

Since I got here we have been up to some pretty cool stuff already, including:

• Collecting memory cards from numerous out of the way cameras to see if there are any photo’s of leopards

• Scouting some trapping sites for a weeks time when we start trapping

• Having my first African braai at a lekker farm, with a lovely man called Chris and his three dogs, including one Rhodesian Ridgeback called Fred.

• Having an icy cold swim at the swimming pool at said lekker farm

• Making up the camera mounts – they had me on the tools! But don’t worry I used appropriate PPE (that’s personal protective equipment for those of you who don’t come from nanny countries) and they wouldn’t let me near the power tools.

• Entering camera data into the computer – involves identifying all the animals captured. It’s been a great way to get familiar with all the animals around here (and their scientific names), the antelopes are a bit tough but I’m getting there

• Learning some really interesting trapping techniques

Tomorrow we head back to the farm that Chris manages to watch the rugby in the morning (important business) and then head out to some more camera sites.

Apologies about the lack of photos – I think it’s going to be pretty hard to load those on to regularly, but I’ll keep trying

Picked up this morning bright and early by Gareth, we were trying to avoid the back to work and back to school traffic – I haven’t had to think about such inconveniences in a long time!

Today we were going up to the Karoo, just outside Calitzdorp, but on the way we had a few chores. One of them would have been quite interesting, as we were to take a honey badger from the SPCA (Society for the prevention of cruelty to animals) and drop it off at a farm in the Karoo. IT would have been the first time for both of us to see a honey badger up close, unfortunately the plans fell through and we didn’t get to bring him along for the ride.

Gareth took me on the scenic drive to Calitzdorp, which involved crossing through a range called the Du Toitskloof Pass outside of Paarl. Massive granite mountains backdropped the road and gave you the immediate impression that you were heading somewhere not connected with the mundanalities (new word, no copying please..) of life.

Outside of a Calitzdorp we drove through another spectacular mountain pass, where the folding and shifting of the rocks gives a fantastic palette of colours and shapes. Coupled with thorny acacia bushes Karoo fynbos vegetation, the entire picture was something I feel very privileged to have viewed.

Once settling in to the house where I will will be staying most of the time, I quickly tried to make friends with the resident tortoise I have christened Terry. Terry unfortunately didn’t want anything to do with me, possibly because I named him Terry. I left Terry with his head stuck obstinately in the corner while Gareth and I went off to check out our (well, mine…) first camera trap. We were checking the batteries and grabbing the memory card to see what it had to show us.

We cruised through photo’s of a persons leg, a vehicle, antelope, aardvark, aardwolf, baboon and caracal when we found a  photo of a leopard – I yelped in triumph! Only to be told quickly that it was not the leopard we were looking for, so while good, not good enough!

We met, Tom, a ranger on the walk home who is mates with the man who helped me end up in the Karoo, Allisdair McDonald. Tom interestingly has also been to Exmouth in WA and so we exchanged many facts about that slice of paradise I used to live so close to!

It is so quiet out here, occasionally the odd car cruises by but otherwise there is simply not a sound. Internet is a bit hit and miss so I will do my best with posts but we will see, methinks this may be the end of regular posts…

Tomorrow it is a choresy, running around day but soon we will be heading to a place called Die Hel to setup some cameras – I’ve heard amazing things, though the name is ominous, so look forward to posting some photos from there

 My heathen Easter is at an end and what a delight it was – talk about being reborn!!

Today was my last day full day in Cape Town for awhile and I had great plans! This morning I went up to a place called Lions Head and some friendly chaps from Cape Town Tandem Paragliding met me there to take me flying of the mountain. Walking up there was a mission after yesterdays climbing effort, my quads are snapping like a macano set, muchos, muchos painos.

I was encouraged in this activity by my mate Adrian, who is organising a charity jump off Kilimanjaro next Feb for around 200 paragliders (Facebook – Wings of Kilimanjaro). My pilot Stephen is one of those guys who will be jumping. At approx 09:25 Cape Town time, I was cursing Adrian’s name and feeling the only twinge of anxiety I’ve had all week!

For some reason, and numerous people agree, I was more nervous about this than about skydiving. Perhaps it’s just that you can see what you might crash into to…. and you’re in such proximity to everything and ignorantly it appears you are at the whim of the wind. I quizzed Stephen on the way down and he assured me that a qualified pilot knows how to handle strong and weak winds and can always bring us in to safety no matter what the wind gods throw at them.

As we stood there waiting we had a couple of false starts that were not helping my building anxiousness. I told Stephen not to rush, I was happy to wait all day if need be! These guys are wind whisperers, they seem to know exactly what is coming before it appears and finally I heard them say, ‘this is a good cycle, let’s go’. The world didn’t seem anymore or less windy than seconds before but after a couple of quick steps the wind had us and we were cruising around lions head from the air

It was a very gentle take off, no leaps of faith off a mountain (pity!). Stephen cruised around searching for some uplift to send us high but they didn’t appear so we took a sled ride down to ground. A few aerobtics, very similar to what Bevan did with the parachute, were great fun – attached video is there for public humiliation. Note the stunning scenery, Cape Town is just made for viewing from all angles and Cape Town paragliders did a brilliant job.

Thanks for the encouragement Ad’s!

Next post will be after I get up to the Swartberg area and start helping out Gareth – he’s told me we will be busy and I can’t wait!

Two Aussies and a Canadian conquered Table Mountain today! I’m sure a few other nationalities can claim it also but as they weren’t walking with us they don’t count.

We set off quickly in the morning in the hope of reaching the summit and catching the cable car down before the rain set in. We were pretty lucky, the rain didn’t come in until we were close to the top and we got some amazing views for most of the climb. It took a steady hour and 45 mins to climb and we were all excited to reach the cable car to avoid the steep and slippery walk back down hill. It was blowing a gale and icy cold and rainy at the top, and we were starving! Looking for some shelter we made our way doggedly towards the cable car area and cafe with hot drinks…. you can probably see where this is going. It was all closed! Too windy for the cable cars, no cafe and no shelter!

If I could have found the edge of the mountain in the fog I might have taken the plunge at that point. But we turned back around and trudged back down stopping briefly under some rocks for a feed – such a yummy and well appreciated kit kat at that moment

Very glad we did it, it was a beautiful walk and on the plus side the walk back down saved us some money and got me in shape for all the trekking I will be doing starting later this week!

Bucketing down with rain today I politely declined a surfing lesson offer and hit the shops instead!

Feeling mildly guilty as there was a big marathon in town today called the Two Oceans and one of the girls (Aussie girl from Coffs Harbour!) in my room was running the half marathon. Just as I was leaving to go shopping she walked in sopping wet, having just run 23km in the pouring rain – I take my hat of to her!

I went a shopping centre called Canal Walk and wow! I’ve already decided that my wardrobe will be revamped when I get back from the mountains. Nonetheless I found a few things to empty my wallet and keep the shopping urge satisfied

This evening I went to dinner with Emily, a local girl here, friends with Kim from my work. She took me to a Japanese restaurant called Willoughbys where I had yummy tempura vegies, chicken satay and wait for it….. tried some tempura shrimp! I impressed upon Emily the momentousness of that action and she waited eagerly for the verdict…. It was not a success but every year I’m getting closer. This year my food discovery is beetroot (thks Ali!) so seafood will just have to wait.

Just had to throw another shot of the pengy town from yesterday…. sooo sweet!

OK now that I have confirmed this I can move forward.

Today I joined a tour out to Cape Point, in hindsight car hire might have been preferable but nonetheless I got to see another beautiful area and a penguin area that puts Phillip Island to shame!!

We went out to see some seals and I’ve never been so nervous on a boat. Large waves, scary sky and large rocks didn’t seem to be a great combination but I probably owe the driver some credit for skill.

The penguin sanctuary at Simon’s Town was a great setup, good pathways good interp signs and whole heap of super cute penguins merrily wobbling about. I could have spent hours there! But alas, Sele, our time keeper aka guide called me back to the fold. At least I was on time unlike the pommy girl who didn’t seem to have the brain capacity to deal with reading a watch.

We then got on our bikes and had a gorgeous ride through Cape Point National Park. The Fynbos vegetation is stunning and the view over the Atlantic and Indian Oceans is incredible. I think I need to gather some volunteers for a couple of day hike through this area….anyone keen?? We also saw Eland, Ostrich and a troop of Baboons

A German lad and I did a hike up to the lighthouse and debated how people could tell where the Atlantic meet the Indian Ocean, but came to no conclusive answer. – does anyone know the answer? He was as student of Political Science so most conversation was a debate and the only person I’ve met happy with airport security..?*!

Another great day in a beautiful place. So very lucky